Volume 08
L-R, top: Luchesi Palomino, Rodnick Pinot Blanc & Chenin, Wilson Chenin, Shell Creek Chenin, Peeps Chenin.
L-R, bottom: Guadeloupe Pinot, Kirschenman Cinsault, Lancel Creek Chardonnay, Witters Gamay Noir, Wirz Riesling.
Notes from the Fields: A 2026 Harvest Deep Dive.
It all started on July 22nd, in Oakley, Contra Costa, with Palomino farmed by Allen Luchesi. Riesling, from Pat Wirz in the Cienega Valley, drew harvest to a close on September the 7th. Two ‘oldtimers' for sure and both had never experienced an earlier harvest. Allen has been farming the Palomino Vineyard since 1990. Pat’s first vintage was 1983! I have been making wine in California since 2000 and I am at a loss at what to do with my September! A good problem to have for sure.
Palomino-Luchesi Vineyard-Contra Costa-July 22nd.
This is quickly becoming a favorite site for me. Who wouldn't be seduced by vines planted in 1925 on their own roots in what is frankly beach sand (Delhi Blow Sand). The Palomino grown here by Allen Luchesi is unlike any I have tasted. Usually quite neutral in my experience, Palomino from this site, however, produces a very complex, come-hither aromatic quality of candied orange rind, tarragon, and pecorino cheese (my dad’s favorite: salty, dry, dense, and complex). More texture and viscosity than expected, with wonderful saline definition on the palate. This finds its way into the Rosé, White blend, and Old Vine White.
Allen Luchesi.
photo joneberlinfoto
Chenin & Pinot Blanc-Rodnick Farm-Chalone- August 4th.
Steinbeck Country! This vineyard is a first for me. Both Chenin and Pinot Blanc, harvested and pressed together. Straight down to barrel for fermentation. Limestone soil, heritage vines, and intentional, certified organic farming. Perched above Salinas, and below the extinct volcano of the Pinnacles National Monument, this is a very special site. Originally planted by Californian pioneer Dick Graaf, tended today by Janet Rogers and Kurt Gollnick. The current stewards are farming beautiful, sage brush-inflected fruit. I love the drive down I-80 and onto HWY 101. To be part of California's history as the breadbasket of this country is farmed on either side of 101. Leaving the fog-strewn valley and climbing into the sun to pick up grapes is one of the highlights of harvest and a true privilege. White blend bound.
Rodnick Farm. photo joneberlinfoto
Chenin Blanc-Wilson Farms-Clarksburg- August 6th.
Does the grower, David Ogilvie, sleep in his Chenin trucker hat? This is a question that needs an answer. Tall, dapper, bass-playing growers are rare. Always on it, a great communicator, he’s a winemaker after all. Clarksburg, deep in the Sacramento delta, is a quirky river town. The vines are planted in silt (river snd) and express a lifted, lively aromatic quality, defined by acidity and elegance on the palate. This year, after whole-cluster pressing, the juice went to tank for fermentation to retain verve and energy. Into the White blend, she will go.
David Ogilvie - Wilson Farms Chenin Blanc. photo joneberlinfoto
Chenin Blanc-Shell Creek-Paso Robles Highlands-August 12th.
I first tasted wine from this site when I was introduced to Rococo Wines last year when purchasing grapes from Los Alamos a couple clicks down the road. The Shell Creek bottling sang! I had to get some! Cold-calling owner Daniel Sinton, he managed to carve off 2 tons for this harvest. This ranch on the east side of Paso Robles has been in his family since 1906. The Chenin was planted on its own roots in 1972. Birth year baby! The name says it all! Marine fossils over limestone soil, gnarled old Chenin vines. Heaven! White blend and Old Vine White.
The road to Shell Creek, East side of Paso Robles. photo joneberlinfoto
Chenin Blanc-Gimelli Vineyard-Cienega Valley- August 13th.
On the opposite side of the Pinnacles National Monument and the Rodnick Farm, Gimelli is planted on limestone and decomposed granite, in an old volcanic caldera. Farmed by Bill Weatherwax, a character if there ever was one, and his ever-present pup, Lily. This site produces serious, structured, almost sombre Chenin. One used Puncheon, and a couple of old barrels are headed for the White blend.
Chenin Blanc-Peeps Vineyard-El Dorado-August 17th.
At the base of the Sierras, off I-80, outside of Placerville, Peeps is on decomposed granite soils under alpine light. This superb combination presents structure, lift, and lightness. Organic and biodynamically farmed by the Whiteside siblings, this is probably the most “complete" stand-alone wine I make. A used Puncheon and a couple of old barrels. It goes into the White blend.
Pinot Noir-Our Lady of Guadalupe-Santa Barbara/Santa Rita-August 17th.
If you are paying attention, you will realize that this was picked the same day as the Peeps Chenin. The wrinkle is, the vineyards are 6 hours apart. Driving up to Peeps at 10:30 pm, the fruit was picked at 2 am. I dropped the grapes off at the winery by 7 am and hightailed it south. After returning Dan Sinton’s bins first, an hour detour, around 3 pm, I hucked the bins off the flatbed around 5 pm. This site is seven miles from Surfrider Beach in Santa Barbara/Santa Rita. Has a front-row view of SpaceX, is the closest vineyard in California to the ocean, and is grown on diatomaceous earth. There are fifty-two separate blocks of Pinot Noir and 2 of Chardonnay. It is an unreal site. Owned by Dave Phinney, farmed meticulously by Amy Warnock. I get clones 949 and Pommard, and by far these are the darkest, smallest Pinot berries I have ever worked with. Native yeast ferments, 70% whole cluster. Used French barrels. “Palmboom” Pinot Noir.
Cinsault-Peeps/Kirschenmann-El Dorado/Lodi-August 21st.
The Cinsault at Peeps was picked at 2 am, and came out at only 1 1/2 tons instead of 4, so I hightailed it together with Peeps Vermentino on the truck to Tegan’s, Kirschenmann vineyard in Lodi, for a bait and swap. Stood around shooting the shit with Tegan, Morgan, and Casey from Bedrock while they picked Katusha old vine Zin. 50% Peeps/Kirschenmann, 100% whole cluster, native yeasts, on skins for 10 days before being drained into neutral French oak. Yum! Cinsault blend.
Lodi. photo joneberlinfoto
Chenin Blanc-Star Lane/Los Alamos-August 24th.
These two vineyards throw the most viscosity and texture of all the Chenin vineyards I harvest. A Southern California thing, I suppose. Star Lane is meticulously farmed by Taylor Jones. The vineyard is nestled in Happy Canyon, inland of Santa Barbara. The Los Alamos field is five minutes outside the town of Los Alamos, off of HWY 101. The Chenin vines here are on their own roots and are 50 years old. I picked these two sites on the same day, a logistical win if there ever was one. We ate a spectacular meal at Bells restaurant, staying across the road at the Alamo Motel. Some days are winning ones. The Star Lane goes into the White blend. As does the Los Alamos while a small amount makes the Old Vine White.
Day Break, Star Lane. photo joneberlinfoto
Cinsault-Sprague-Clements Hills, August 27th.
A new source for me as my love of light-bodied reds grows. 13 miles east of the town of Lodi, the Clements Hills AVA is defined by rolling, rounded hills and slopes, bisected by the Mokelumne River. The soils are older, red and yellowish-brick red clay loams, of volcanic and granitic origin, alongside younger sandy loams near the river. Gordon Sprague has gone all in on Cinsault, and I am excited to see how this turns out. 50% whole cluster, native yeast fermentation. Drained and pressed into older used white barrels, potentially going into the Cinsault blend.
Chardonnay-Lancel Creek-Occidental-September 1st.
Yep, Chardonnay! Gorgeous, fresh, elegant, racy Chardonnay. Planted in 2010 to a Montrachet clonal selection, on Goldridge soil, 5 miles from the ocean and above the town of Occidental. Heavy hitters get this fruit, and somehow I finagled some as well. Farmed by Nathan Felician, this is whole-cluster pressed without any SO2, directly to the only new barrel I buy, Eric Millard, and 5 used Francois-Frères barrels for fermentation and aging. “Palmboom” Chardonnay.
Gamay-Witters-El Dorado-September 1st.
Alpine fruit. The light here is different with every increase in elevation. Thirty minutes up the road and into the Sierras, away from the Peeps Vineyard, this is farmed by Chuck Mansfield of Goldbud Farms. Jovial, articulate, a winemaker by training. I am most excited about this Gamay Noir! The soils are Aiken Clay Loam. When the fruit arrived at the winery, I was stunned by the quality! Grape perfection. 100% whole-cluster fermentation, 10 days on skins, drained and pressed to tank, to finish ferment off skins, before being run into 2 old white puncheons and a couple of used white barrels. Cinsault blend potential.
Riesling-Wirz-Cienaga Valley-September 7th.
Pat Wirz. photo joneberlinfoto
Originally, this vineyard was planted to mixed-blacks in 1900. The Riesling bush vines were planted in 1964 on their own roots, in the decomposed granite and limestone soils found in the Cienega Valley. The San Andreas Fault runs through the property, which sits on the eastern flank of the Gablian Mountains. I am deeply grateful to work with Pat Wirz, as his thoughtful organic farming and unique site produce stunning wine. To me it tastes like a “Steinbeck Novel”! Whole-cluster pressed without SO2 and sent to tank for a cold fermentation, before being run into used white barrels for aging. Old Vine White and the White blend.
photo joneberlinfoto
Harvest ‘26 wrapped. I am excited about the potential this year, and remain committed to bringing approachable, accessible, affordable, and most importantly, delicious wine to you. Keep an eye out for the release of the ‘25 White Blend and ‘25 Cinsault hitting your mailbox next week. I have been getting great reviews from people I have shown these two wines to. I can’t wait for you to try them!
FRIENDS MENTIONED HERE
https://sandlandsvineyards.com/
